ST. LOUIS — A St. Louis restaurant has been named among one of the best new restaurants in 2020 by GQ magazine.
GQ’s Brett Martin went to 23 cities and 93 restaurants ahead of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Indo, a modern Asian restaurant, opened in St. Louis’ Botanical Heights neighborhood in summer 2019.
Martin wrote that indo is the “best kind of fusion created by a Midwestern prodigy.”
Chef and owner Nick Bognar grew up in his family’s restaurants. Indo is a culmination of his career as a chef and showcases his talents in Japanese, Thai and Southeast Asian cooking in his hometown of St. Louis.
“Bognar, who is 28, clearly has a gift for flavor, as well as precocious restraint cultivated as executive chef of a high-end sushi restaurant owned by his mother—even if Indo, which ranges widely in Southeast Asian and Japanese flavors, may be meant as a release valve for his more creative impulses,” Martin wrote.
He boasted about indo’s take on ‘laarb.’
“A large quenelle of lamb tartare pushed to the side of the plate, it was crimson with chili oil and fairly pulsating with the pops and crackles of pine nuts, fried shallots, and herbs—a dish of disparate parts with almost electric intensity when they all came together,” he wrote.
Indo will reopen for curbside service on Thursday beginning at 3 p.m.
A spokesperson said its new hours will be from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. Thursday through Sunday.
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